San Vito di Cadore
Intermediate
About 7 hours
Torre Sabbioni
About 1.500 m
A beautiful climb on good rock, worth doing at least once for the historical importance of this route. It was first ascended by the Cadorina guide L. Cesaletti, who ventured alone onto this solitary secondary summit of the Marmarole group, pioneering a new way of climbing mountains in search of increasingly difficult lines, even on smaller peaks.
The climb is never overly difficult; the gray limestone provides excellent grip. One of the highlights of the ascent is the exposed traverse that separates the system of ramps and chimneys on the lower part from the final rocky ledges of the summit. Once reaching the summit cross (one of five twin crosses), the view is unique: the tower’s summit is surrounded by major peaks such as Marcora, Sorapiss, Tre Sorelle, Cima Belprà, and in the distance Pelmo, Antelao, and Tre Cime.
The descent follows an independent rappel line that avoids the traverses of the normal route.
First ascenders: Luigi Cesaletti solo on August 24, 1877.
Although it is not a long route, the approach and total elevation gain of about 1500 meters should not be underestimated. Since currently it is not permitted to reach Rifugio Scotter by car or cable car (temporarily closed in summer), the car can be left at the ski area parking near San Vito ski slopes. From there, on foot, you reach Rifugio Scotter, Rifugio San Marco, and Forcella Grande at 2255 meters, from where you head along tracks to the base of Torre dei Sabbioni, which stands alone on the right side of Val de San Vido.
You go around the tower until you reach the gravel basin at the base of Costa Belprà. The ascent becomes steep and strenuous due to the slope and the loose track on the gravel cone, leading up to the basal foot of the tower on its south side.
From here begins the normal route: start with a short vertical jump of a few meters that leads to the first ledge. Follow it leftward to the first chimney, which, with a few vertical moves of grade 3, brings you to a second ledge, still heading left for a few meters. Here, a nearly 50-meter steep chimney leads to the middle ledge, and shortly after, to the upper ledge, where the key step is finally faced. A difficult constriction of the ledge forces you to lower your feet on the edge of the wall and, with a few delicate moves, reach the ridge where the route widens and becomes easier. A few more pitches of cracks, dihedrals, and overhangs on stunning gray rock shaped by water over millions of years bring you to the summit cross at 2531 meters.
The descent involves rappelling twice along the southeast ridge, cutting across all the ledge traverses. In five short rappels, you return to the base of the tower, then retrace the approach route in reverse. The descent is not easy in the first part, but after about 1 hour and 30 minutes, it brings you back to Rifugio San Marco, and in 2 hours to Rifugio Scotter, where you can rest before heading back down the valley, following the forest road to the parking area.
AD, max IV°-
June – October
2.531 m
Rely on our Mountain Guide for a fun hike in safety.
Please note: Reservations are required by the previous evening.
Price includes:
Guide service, technical equipment
Meeting time and place:
To be arranged with the Mountain Guide