Via Comici/Del Torso – Col de Varda

A historic and elegant route by Emilio Comici, first climbed in 1934, following the obvious crack system splitting the center of the face. The crux (UIAA V) is well protected, and along the route there are a few fixed pitons at belays and key sections.

For the approach, follow the initial stretch of the Bonacossa Trail (No. 117). Below the wall, a steep climbers’ path leads directly to the base of the route.

From the top, descend a few meters south to a small notch (III). From here, continue southwest via another short section of easy scrambling (III) to reach a ledge. Follow faint tracks leading into a scree gully; keeping to its left side, descend back to the approach trail in about one hour.

First ascent: Emilio Comici and Severino del Torso