Via Comici - Torre Piccola Falzarego

Cortina d’Ampezzo

UIAA grade

V-

Duration

Approach: 30 mins
Total: approx. 3 hours

Summit

Torre Piccola di Falzarego

Elevation gain

230 m

Description

The Comici Route is a classic and elegant climb following the airy South Ridge of the Torre Piccola di Falzarego.

The rock is generally sound and compact, with the central section offering enjoyable and well-featured climbing on pocketed limestone. Its southern exposure makes it suitable even in spring and autumn on sunny days. The position is outstanding, with sweeping views over the Ampezzo basin and many Dolomite 3000ers, including the Marmolada.

The approach is also of historical interest, passing the remains of the Italian front line from World War I at the base of the route.

DESCENT

From the summit, downclimb (I/II) or make a short rappel (about 10 m) to the left to reach fixed anchors. From here, make a 25 m rappel, then follow a gully leading to the base of the Torre Grande. Descend via faint trails and sections of easy scrambling along the slopes.

TRIVIA

First ascent: E. Comici – S. del Torso – Mary Varale (1934)

Current route state

Dal rif. Lagazuoi si scende alla Forcella del Lagazuoi e si continua a scendere fino ad incrociare il sentiero 20b. Da questo si traversa sotto la cresta nord ovest del Lagazuoi Grande e quindi si sale alla Forcella Granda, da cui si raggiunge il vicino Bivacco Della Chiesa, posto nei pressi dell’attacco della ferrata.

Ascent description

Immediately after the vertical attack and once passed the smooth horizontal traverse (double rope) placed under a cliff, continue for vertical walls and exposed to the middle area of the part.

You then move left for tracks, until a crossroads from where you continue to climb to the vertical right-hand lobbies (the left ropes lead to the Alta Val di Fanes).

Giunti ad un terrazzino si affrontano una serie di pareti che conducono alla cresta da cui, superata un’ultima verticale placca, per facili rocce si giunge alla cima.

Descent description

Si scende con funi fisse lungo il più facile ma ripido percorso attrezzato che percorre il versante nord est fino alla Selletta Fanis. Quindi si discende per ghiaioni fino a Forcella Gasser de Pot dalla quale, con il sentiero 20b, si raggiunge la Forcella Travenanzes.

Da qui, segnavia 401, con discesa fino al Passo Falzarego. Alternatively, ascent to Rif. Lagazuoi and descent by cable car.

Via Ferrata Cortina_Guide Alpine (27) ferrata degli alpini col dei bos

Pitches

7

Group

Fanis

Recommended period

From May to November

Summit elevation

2.416 m

Book your private Guide

Rely on our Mountain Guide for a fun hike in safety.

Please note: Reservations are required by the previous evening.

The price includes:
Guide service, technical equipment

Meeting time and place:
To be arranged with the Mountain Guide

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