An iconic route of the Ampezzo basin, tracing a striking and sustained line along the oblique crack system that defines the imposing pillar. It demands good fitness and delivers continuous, athletic climbing throughout. The harder sections require solid technique and body positioning. Key features include two roofs, a characteristic “mule’s back” (rounded arête), and airy belays—partially equipped with fixed bolts (fix) that enhance safety. Overall, this is a highly rewarding ascent set in a spectacular and panoramic environment.
Access
From Rifugio Dibona (accessible by car), first follow the dirt road, then continue on trail no. 404 towards the Ferrata Lipella. Upon reaching the base of the wall, traverse right (east) to quickly reach the foot of the ridge. Approach time: approximately 50 minutes.
Descent
From the top, once on the scree slopes, descend gradually following faint tracks towards Punta Marièta. Cross a gully to gain a narrow, exposed ledge that traverses around the above mentioned pinnacle. At its end, the path leads towards Rifugio Giussani. From there, descend into the valley and return to Rifugio Dibona via trail no. 403. Time: about 1 hour 30 minutes.
Notes
Early in the season, snow may still be present along the descent, potentially making it more delicate—especially given the exposed sections.
Pitches
21
Group
Tofane
Recommended period
June – September
Summit elevation
3,225 m
Book your private Guide
Rely on our Mountain Guide for a fun hike in safety.
Please note: Reservations are required by the previous evening.
The price includes:
Guide service, technical equipment
Meeting time and place: To be arranged with the Mountain Guide
Write us now to make reservations or get information about our activities!
Write us now to make reservations or get information about our activities!