Via Nikibì - Lastoi de Formin

Cortina d’Ampezzo

Difficulty

6b+

Duration

Approach: 45 mins
Total: approx. 4 hours

Summit

Torrione Marcella

Elevation gain

350 m

Description

Opened in June 2002 by Mario Dibona and Gretchen Alexander, Via Nikibi climbs the west face of the Torrione Marcella.

The route is fully equipped with bolts. Reliable protection and moderate, never excessive difficulties allow for enjoyable and secure climbing on compact rock. Nikibi is a modern-style route where, much like in sport climbing, both safety and difficulty are carefully balanced.

Its exposure makes it particularly suitable during warmer periods.

DESCENT

Straightforward and well marked (cairns): move onto the plateau behind the tower until you pick up the path descending the north gully of the Torrione. This quickly leads back to the base of the route.

Current route state

Dal rif. Lagazuoi si scende alla Forcella del Lagazuoi e si continua a scendere fino ad incrociare il sentiero 20b. Da questo si traversa sotto la cresta nord ovest del Lagazuoi Grande e quindi si sale alla Forcella Granda, da cui si raggiunge il vicino Bivacco Della Chiesa, posto nei pressi dell’attacco della ferrata.

Ascent description

Immediately after the vertical attack and once passed the smooth horizontal traverse (double rope) placed under a cliff, continue for vertical walls and exposed to the middle area of the part.

You then move left for tracks, until a crossroads from where you continue to climb to the vertical right-hand lobbies (the left ropes lead to the Alta Val di Fanes).

Giunti ad un terrazzino si affrontano una serie di pareti che conducono alla cresta da cui, superata un’ultima verticale placca, per facili rocce si giunge alla cima.

Descent description

Si scende con funi fisse lungo il più facile ma ripido percorso attrezzato che percorre il versante nord est fino alla Selletta Fanis. Quindi si discende per ghiaioni fino a Forcella Gasser de Pot dalla quale, con il sentiero 20b, si raggiunge la Forcella Travenanzes.

Da qui, segnavia 401, con discesa fino al Passo Falzarego. Alternatively, ascent to Rif. Lagazuoi and descent by cable car.

Via Ferrata Cortina_Guide Alpine (27) ferrata degli alpini col dei bos

Pitches

9

Group

Lastoi de Formin

Raccomended period

From July to September

Summit elevation

1860 m

Book your private Guide

Rely on our Mountain Guide for a fun hike in safety.

Please note: Reservations are required by the previous evening.

The price includes:
Guide service, technical equipment

Meeting time and place:
To be arranged with the Mountain Guide

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Write us now to make reservations or get information about our activities!

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Write us now to make reservations or get information about our activities!

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