Via Primo Spigolo – Tofana di Ròzes

Cortina d’Ampezzo

Difficulty

IVV, 2 V+ moves

Duration

About 5 hour

Summit

Tofana di Rozes

Elevation gain

430 m

Description

A classic, elegant, and very popular route, following for a good part an exposed ridge. First climbed in August 1946 by the Ampezzo climbers Albino Alverà and Ugo Pompanin.

The rock quality is very good, as is the fixed protection, with additional opportunities for placing gear. A route of moderate difficulty set in a striking and highly panoramic environment.

First ascent: Albino Alverà – Ugo Pompanin

Access

From Rifugio Dibona (accessible by car), follow the dirt road at first, then continue on trail no. 404 towards the Ferrata Lipella.. Upon reaching the base of the wall, turn right (east) and shortly arrive at the foot of the ridge. Approach time: about 50 minutes.

Descent

From the top, once on the scree slope, ascend it for several meters until reaching the exit path of the routes on the pillar. Traverse horizontally across the slope towards Punta Marièta, cross a gully, and gain a narrow, exposed ledge that goes around the pinnacle. At the end of the ledge, the path leads towards Rifugio Giussani. From there, descend the valley back to Rifugio Dibona via trail no. 403. Time: about 1 hour 30 minutes.

Notes

If climbed early in the season, snow may be present on the descent, potentially increasing difficulty—especially given the exposed sections.

Pitches

14

Group

Tofane

Recommended period

June – September

Summit elevation
3,225 m

3,225 m

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