Via Eötvös / Dimai - Tofana di Rozes

Cortina d’Ampezzo

Difficulty

III e IV (IV+ one passage)

Duration

Approach: 1 hour
Total: 6/8 hours

Peak

Tofana di Rozes

Elevation gain

Total: 1.100 m
Climbing route: 840 m

Arrampicata classica_Credit Guide Cortina_tofana rozes_PRIMO SPIGOLO 02

Description

The classic route that climbs the south face of Tofana is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful routes in the Dolomites in a majestic and striking environment. Although not difficult (3 to 4 grade with some passages of 4+) it has a development of more than 1000 meters with a wall drop of about 800 meters.

From the mountaineering point of view, the route must not be underestimated as it is in fact very long and not easy to identify in case of bad visibility. Good training and sense of direction are two essential characteristics to climb this route. 

Halfway up and shortly after there are two amphitheaters to cross where rope management is important. Towards the end a challenging and exposed traverse must be tackled where the route book is also located.

Very striking are the attack in which a rock tunnel is crossed and the final chimney with a large jammed boulder. 

The environment is spectacular but coming out of the route is not over! To reach the summit it is necessary to climb another 200 m along the southwestern shoulder.

Curiosity

Superb and grandiose route in the heart of the Rozes opened in 1901 in just 10 hours!

August 8, 2021 was the 120th anniversary of the first ascent, made by Baronesses Rolanda and Ilona Eötvös, led by the famous mountain guides of the time-Antonio Dimai, Agostino Verzi, and Giovanni Siorpaes.

Sisters Rolanda and Ilona Eötvös were two Hungarian nobles, daughters of Baron Roland, an eminent scientist and passionate mountaineer. From their father they certainly inherited a passion for mountaineering, and over the years they completed, always accompanied by mountain guides, numerous first ascents in the Dolomites.

Access

Dal rif. Lagazuoi si scende alla Forcella del Lagazuoi e si continua a scendere fino ad incrociare il sentiero 20b. Da questo si traversa sotto la cresta nord ovest del Lagazuoi Grande e quindi si sale alla Forcella Granda, da cui si raggiunge il vicino Bivacco Della Chiesa, posto nei pressi dell’attacco della ferrata.

Ascent description

Subito dopo il verticale attacco e una volta superato il liscio traverso orizzontale (doppia corda) posto sotto uno strapiombo, si prosegue per pareti verticali ed esposte fino alla zona mediana della parte.

Ci si sposta quindi a sinistra per tracce, fino ad un bivio da dove si continua a salire per le verticali paretine di destra (le corde di sinistra portano all’Alta Val di Fanes).

Giunti ad un terrazzino si affrontano una serie di pareti che conducono alla cresta da cui, superata un’ultima verticale placca, per facili rocce si giunge alla cima.

Descent description

Si scende con funi fisse lungo il più facile ma ripido percorso attrezzato che percorre il versante nord est fino alla Selletta Fanis. Quindi si discende per ghiaioni fino a Forcella Gasser de Pot dalla quale, con il sentiero 20b, si raggiunge la Forcella Travenanzes.

Da qui, segnavia 401, con discesa fino al Passo Falzarego. In alternativa risalita fino al rif. Lagazuoi e discesa con funivia.

Via Ferrata Cortina_Guide Alpine (27) ferrata degli alpini col dei bos
Via Ferrata Cortina_Guide Alpine (15) Punta Anna

Pitches

19/20 pitches

Area

Tofane

Recommended period

June – September

Altitude

3.225 m

Book your private Guide

Rely on our Mountain Guide for a fun hike in safety.

Please note: Reservations are required by the previous evening.

The price includes:
Guide services, technical equipment.

Meeting place:
To be agreed with the Guide

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