Alta Badia – Fanis Group
VIII (or VI/A1)
Approach: 1.5 hours
Total: 6–9 hours
Cima Scotoni
450 m (up to the second ledge)
One of the most famous and demanding classic routes not only in the Cortina area but in the entire Dolomites. At the time of the first ascent, the difficulties forced the pioneers to overcome a section using a human pyramid. Even today, the challenges should not be underestimated.
After an easy slab (zoccolo), the crux pitch appears immediately. Aid climbing is not particularly demanding, but near the final traverse there is a delicate free move requiring precision and composure. Those attempting it free are advised to warm up carefully, as the wall remains in the shade for a long time when starting early.
A few pitches higher, access to the first ledge requires squeezing through a low tunnel known as the “cat’s passage,” a unique feature that has contributed to the route’s fame. After a welcome rest, focus is again essential: reaching the second ledge involves a series of sustained pitches, not always easy to route-find (numerous pitons and abandoned belays are scattered along the way). Nonetheless, the climbing here is perhaps the most athletic and rewarding of the entire route.
From the second ledge, the original line would continue to the summit, but due to poor rock quality, most parties choose to avoid this final section.
From the ledge, traverse left (north) along an easy but exposed path until rounding the northwest ridge and reaching the scree slopes of the normal route. From here, descend easily to the Forcella del Lago and then back along the approach trail.
Dal rif. Lagazuoi si scende alla Forcella del Lagazuoi e si continua a scendere fino ad incrociare il sentiero 20b. Da questo si traversa sotto la cresta nord ovest del Lagazuoi Grande e quindi si sale alla Forcella Granda, da cui si raggiunge il vicino Bivacco Della Chiesa, posto nei pressi dell’attacco della ferrata.
Immediately after the vertical attack and once passed the smooth horizontal traverse (double rope) placed under a cliff, continue for vertical walls and exposed to the middle area of the part.
You then move left for tracks, until a crossroads from where you continue to climb to the vertical right-hand lobbies (the left ropes lead to the Alta Val di Fanes).
Giunti ad un terrazzino si affrontano una serie di pareti che conducono alla cresta da cui, superata un’ultima verticale placca, per facili rocce si giunge alla cima.
Si scende con funi fisse lungo il più facile ma ripido percorso attrezzato che percorre il versante nord est fino alla Selletta Fanis. Quindi si discende per ghiaioni fino a Forcella Gasser de Pot dalla quale, con il sentiero 20b, si raggiunge la Forcella Travenanzes.
Da qui, segnavia 401, con discesa fino al Passo Falzarego. Alternatively, ascent to Rif. Lagazuoi and descent by cable car.
18/19
Fanis
June to September
2,874 m
Rely on our Mountain Guide for a fun hike in safety.
Please note: Reservations are required by the previous evening.
The price includes:
Guide service, technical equipment
Meeting time and place:
To be arranged with the Mountain Guide
“La Tomaselli è a ragione considerata una delle più difficili ferrate delle Dolomiti. È bellissima sia per la sua linea perfetta che per l’ambiente. Itinerario da non sottovalutare con i primi cambi di temperatura autunnali. Una variante interessantissima porta alla cengia Veronesi, un’aerea cengia che richiede passo fermo e concentrazione. Per gli appassionati di storia forzuti e senza vertigini.”