Description
Marmolada – Normal Route
The Queen of the Dolomites
Difficulty
Advanced
Duration
2 days | 1 night
Summit
Marmolada
Elevation gain
1,300 meters
Description
A historic route, softened in 2005 with the addition of a via ferrata in the rocky section that connects the glacier to the snowy summit ridge. This itinerary allows to reach the highest peak in the Dolomites, crossing the last glacier notable for its size.
Unfortunately, due to global warming and its limited altitude, the glacier is retreating rapidly, and a recent study estimates its remaining lifespan at about 20 years.
Program
Below, we propose a two-day ascent with an overnight stay just a few steps from the summit cross at Rifugio Capanna Punta Penia at 3340 meters. This option allows full enjoyment of the climb and the chance to admire the sunset and, for early risers, the sunrise from the “roof” of the Dolomites. However, the same route can also be completed in a single day for the more trained.
Note: Since 2019, the Pian dei Fiacconi cable car is no longer operational; therefore, access is only possible on foot from Lake Fedaia. Additionally, following a snowslide on December 14, 2020, the Pian dei Fiacconi Refuge, usually used as a support point to split the route, is currently inaccessible.
1° Day
RIFUGIO CAPANNA PUNTA PENIA
RIFUGIO CAPANNA PUNTA PENIA
Duration
From 4 to 6/7 hours
Elevation gain
About 1300 m
Meet with the guide, check equipment, and depart from Cortina (alternatively, meet at the parking lot), with the time to be decided based on weather and temperatures.
From the parking lot, the trail ascends initially over a series of solid, polished limestone slabs shaped by the much larger glacier that once covered the area. In about 2 hours, it will lead us to the remains of the Rifugio Pian dei Fiacconi, where early in the season, we will find the first snow.
We will then follow an optional route toward the actual glacier, passing on the left the now-unused Rifugio Capanna del Ghiaccio (unfortunately closed after the tragic accident on July 3, 2022). Once equipped with crampons and having formed a glacier rope team, we will ascend to the base of the rocky ledge, where a simple yet scenic via ferrata will lead us to the summit ridge called “Schiena de Mul” for the final approximately 150 meters of elevation that separate us from the summit.
The afternoon can be dedicated to learning and practicing knots and proper belaying techniques for future alpine glacier adventures.
After dinner, we will enjoy the spectacular sunset view of the enrosadira, with a panorama that includes major Dolomite groups such as Sassolungo, Sella, Agner, Catinaccio, Fanis, Tofane, and Civetta, just to name a few!
Overnight in a dormitory.
2° Day
BACK HOME
BACK HOME
Duration
About 3/4 hours
Elevation gain
–1300 meters
Optionally, wake early to witness the birth of a new day from the summit cross, just a few dozen meters from the hut. After a hearty breakfast with the famous cakes prepared by the manager, we will prepare for the descent along the same route as the ascent.
UIAA grade
PD-
Recommended period
June – September
Group
Marmolada
Summit elevation
3.340 m
Book your private Guide
Rely on our Mountain Guide for a fun hike in safety.
Please note: Reservations are required by the previous evening.
The price includes:
Guide service, technical equipment
Extra costs:
Overnight stay with half board at the Rifugio Capanna Punta Penia (price 2023 € 70.00/person. Any applicable CAI Member discounts).
Equipment needed:
Harness, helmet, crampons, ice axe, waterproof boots, 30L backpack, gloves, water and food. Sticks recommended.
Meeting time and place:
To be agreed with the Guide



